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Demand rises for isle baker
By Laura Elder
The Daily News
Published September 27, 2009
I had been hearing about “Maria, the baker,” for a while when I walked into the newly opened Oasis Juice Bar, a chic arrival in the island’s downtown. I was there for the juice, but some artisan breads at the counter caught my eye.
Carolyn Tracy, who with partner Chris Courville, owns Oasis, said the bread came from this mysterious Maria, who was supplying some other restaurants around the island. I bought some focaccia and set out to learn more about the baker who was creating so much buzz.
Her full name is Maria Adolphs. She began selling baked goods at a farmers market in the island’s downtown in July 2007, with the idea it would be low-key way to earn a little money and put to use baking skills she picked up at restaurants through the years.
Little did Adolphs, who also has an online biscotti business called Biscotti Icasiano, know that she would soon be supplying some of the island’s trendiest coffee shops, cafes and juice bars with muffins, breads and pies and more.
Adolphs moved from San Francisco to Galveston three years ago with husband, Arlo, and daughter, Maia Zoe, now 6. Her husband is an accountant at Galveston College’s bookstore.
The Adolphs moved to the island because they wanted to live by the water in a city where real estate is affordable. She decided to earn a little money at the Downtown Galveston Farmers Market, a popular event before Hurricane Ike. Before she knew it, she was filling orders for Lunchbox Cafe, 213 23rd St. downtown, where her mini-pies are in high demand. Adolphs also began supplying muffins and scones to Sugar Bean Coffee and Cream, 11 Evia Main St., on the island’s West End.
When Oasis Juice Bar opened in June, Tracy and Chris Courville approached her about supplying vegan treats — those containing no animal or dairy products — for their health-conscious venture.
Adolphs adapted some recipes to suit vegans and now supplies Oasis with muffins — pumpkin, zucchini, blueberry and banana nut — so moist the absence of egg and butter is imperceptible.
But Adolphs uses eggs and dairy products in baked goods for other clients.
Demand for her products caught Adolphs off guard, she said.
“I didn’t expect it at all,” she said. “I just thought I would do the farmers market.”
To meet growing demand, Adolphs rented a kitchen from Chopin Mon Ami Catering until she could have a small, commercial one installed at her home.
Adolphs learned to bake while working for an family who owned two restaurants in San Francisco.
On delivery days, Adolphs awakens at 4:30 a.m. (earlier if there’s a large bread order) and starts baking. One of her busiest days is preparing for The Farm Box Market, a small farmers market from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. the second and fourth Saturdays each month at Lunch Box Cafe.
It was through the market Oasis owners met Adolphs.
A business partner suggested that Oasis add baked goods. But the couple didn’t have time to bake and run the juice bar. They liked Adolphs’ flexibility as a baker.
Though tricky, Adolphs has even made gluten-free bread at the request of some customers.
Adolphs likes to work with her hands, she said. She enjoys the challenge of breads. Some specialties include French, sesame wheat, rosemary sea salt focaccia and Greek pita.
“I love bread; you never know what’s going to happen,” she said.
Although Adolphs’ popularity is growing, she doesn’t want rapid expansion. She enjoys her bakers’ hours, which allow her to drive and pick up her daughter, who also is her sidekick and an impartial tester of recipes, from school.
“It’s a very part-time business,” she said.
Still, Adolphs wouldn’t mind adding some restaurants and cafes to her route, she said.
Adolphs also likes the intimate network of businesses downtown.
“I love it here,” Adolphs said. “The downtown atmosphere reminds of different neighborhoods in San Francisco.”
Soon, islanders will spot Adolphs making deliveries on her bike. She’s ordered a special basket for the bike to hold deliveries.
“I can trick myself into exercising,” she said.
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Jalapeño Cheddar Bread
1/2 cup milk
3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons butter
4-1/2 teaspoons yeast
1-1/2 cups warm water
5-6 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups shredded cheddar
2 large jalapeños, seeded/chopped
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine milk, sugar, salt and butter. Heat in small pan until sugar dissolves. Cool to lukewarm.
2. Dissolve yeast in warm water in warmed bowl. Add milk mixture and 41/2 cups flour. Mix on medium/low for one minute or by hand until well combined. Continue mixing, adding 1/2 cup flour at a time. Knead for 2 more minutes or until smooth and elastic. Add cheese and peppers.
3. Place in greased bowl, turning to coat top. Cover, let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.
4. Punch dough down to deflate. Divide in half. Shape into two loaves. Place in greased bread loaf pans. Cover, let rise until doubled.
5. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. Remove from oven and pans, cool on rack.
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Almond Poppy Scones
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
1/3 cup butter
1 egg beaten
1 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 cup whipping cream
1/3 cup sliced or chopped almonds
Glaze
1 egg beaten
1 teaspoon whipping cream
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine flour, sugar, baking powder and poppy seeds. Cut in butter (with pastry blender or two knives) until crumbly. In another bowl, mix wet ingredients. Add to dry mixture, mix until moistened. (Do not over-mix).
2. Shape dough into even shaped balls (about 5 ounces each) Place on parchment-lined pan, and flatten ball slightly.
3. Brush each scone with glaze, sprinkle with almonds and sugar.
4. Bake for about 15 minutes or until lightly browned.
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For info
For information, call 409-974-0909 or http://biscottiicasiano.food.officelive.com/contactus.aspx.
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